One of the greatest soups in the world. Built on a trip to Thailand, refined over thousands of bowls. Tiger prawns, smoked haddock, nahm prik pao. Thirty minutes.

Tom kha gai with cold-smoked chicken, wild mushrooms and butternut squash. The nahm prik pao goes on at the table. Serve with jasmine rice. Quicker than it looks and better than most versions.